Do retinoids thin your skin? Mastering Retinoids: Dermal Remodelling vs. Stratum Corneum Thinning

I break down the histological reality of how retinoids affect the cellular matrix.While social media often warns that these ingredients "thin" the skin, the peer-reviewed evidence tells a different story of epidermal compaction and dermal thickening. In this episode, I specifically explore:

  • The Science of Retinization: Why the initial "glassy" look and peeling are often misunderstood as skin thinning.
  • The Asian Skin Phenotype: Why East Asian skin and skin of color have a unique genetic susceptibility to irritation from Western high-strength protocols.
  • Aging and Sensitivity: How the skin's lipid production changes over time, potentially unmasking conditions like xerotic eczema or perioral dermatitis.
  • Gentler Alternatives: The role of retinyl propionate and soothing ethnobotanicals like Centella Asiatica (Cica) in a modern skincare routine.

Whether you are a long-time retinol user or are hesitant to start, this episode aims to set the record straight with a dermatologist’s evidence-backed perspective. 

Follow the Research:

Official Website: ⁠⁠drtwlderma.com⁠⁠

The Syllabus: https://twlskin.com/retinoids-asian-skin-barrier-thinning/

Instagram: @drteowanlin


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