How Tyler Andrews Smashed the Everest Speed Record by an Hour Using Double Thresholds

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EPISODE SUMMARY

Tyler Andrews, a two-time Olympic trials marathon qualifier turned speed mountaineer, joins the LetsRun.com podcast after shattering the record for fastest ascent of Mount Everest, climbing from base camp to summit in 9 hours 55 minutes, over an hour faster than the 22-year-old previous mark. Andrews details the logistical nightmare of speed climbing Everest, from navigating the deadly Khumbu Icefall at night to waiting until the season's final day for a crowd-free mountain.

The conversation covers his unconventional training, double threshold sessions applied to mountaineering, hypoxic training at simulated altitudes above 30,000 feet, and living at elevation in Ecuador and Nepal. After going 0-for-6 across three seasons due to broken gear, bad weather, and crowding, everything finally aligned on attempt seven. Andrews also hints at a return to road racing with eyes on the 2028 Olympic Marathon Trials.

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LINKS

TIMESTAMPS

  • 00:00 Aletheia Run -Free trial + save 10% with code LETSRUN10
  • 1:20 Start
  • 06:02 Climbing Logistics, Crowds, and Gear
  • 13:03 Training for Everest With Double Thresholds
  • 20:18 Seven Attempts: What Went Wrong
  • 23:34 Proof, Danger, and the Ethics of Speed Climbing
  • 31:08 How Hard Is It to Climb Everest?
  • 34:24 From Marathoner to Mountaineer
  • 39:48 Risk, Ethics, and the 2028 Olympic Trials
  • 43:17 Life as a Full-Time Mountaineer

CONTACT

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