If you were to reflect on the most influential restaurants during the renaissance of food in America, you could not exit the thought without thinking of Ma Maison. Not only a Hollywood scene of its own, the fresh take on French cuisine started the change in how Americans saw food. One of the most poignant contributions to the food scene was bringing the chef out of the "back-house" into the "front house" to glad hand the guests. And make the chef Wolfgang Puck and you have a recipe for success.
In this episode of Wine Talks, I sit down with legendary restaurateur Patrick Terrail, famed for establishing the iconic Mamaison in Los Angeles. The conversation dives deep into the evolution of fine dining in America, exploring how Ma Maison revolutionized LA's restaurant scene with innovations like alfresco dining and a keen focus on both classical French and emerging California wines. Terrail shares vivid anecdotes about the opening years, the challenges he faced—including an infamous bad review—and how he returned to his French roots to refine his vision. A highlight is the pivotal role Wolfgang Puck played as Ma Maison's chef, and how their partnership helped shift LA’s culinary direction. Terrail also reflects on his storied family history, connected to Tour d’Argent, and the larger shift from the maitre d’-driven restaurants of mid-century France to chef-centric establishments in America.
Beyond restaurant life, Terrail reveals the intensity the hospitality business demands, explaining that it consumed his life to the point of delaying marriage until he “divorced his restaurant.” The episode is filled with insights on the wine industry—past and present—punctuated by fascinating detours about old-school wine traditions, organic viticulture, and the art of running an iconic, people-centric restaurant in Hollywood’s golden age.
✅ What really happens when a legendary French restaurateur meets a true wine aficionado? ✅ Legendary restaurateur Patrick Terrail joins host Paul Kalemkiarian for an unforgettable deep dive into the stories and secrets behind fine dining in America. ✅ On this episode of Wine Talks, get a rare look behind the scenes of LA’s iconic Ma Maison, pioneering wine lists, culinary passion, and why good wine storytelling matters now more than ever. ✅ If you’re obsessed with food, wine, and the people who shape culture, this conversation will leave you hungry for more. Listen now! 🍷✨
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